The concrete calculator that just works
Figure out exactly how much concrete your slab, footing or column needs, plus gravel, sand, topsoil and mulch. Cubic yards, cubic meters, tons and bags, all in your browser, in seconds.
Quick Concrete Calculator
Enter a slab's length, width and thickness for cubic yards and 80 lb bags.
Need footings, round columns or metric? Open the full concrete calculator.
Pick the right calculator
One purpose-built tool for every common material.
Concrete Calculator
Slabs, footings and columns. Cubic yards, m³ and bags.
Open tool →Rebar Calculator
Slab grid spacing. Linear feet, stock lengths and weight.
Open tool →Gravel Calculator
Driveways and paths. Cubic yards and tons of gravel.
Open tool →Crushed Stone Calculator
Base and drainage stone. Cubic yards and tons.
Open tool →Sand Calculator
Paver base and fill. Cubic yards and tons of sand.
Open tool →River Rock Calculator
Decorative beds and drainage. Cubic yards and tons.
Open tool →Paver Calculator
Patios and walkways. Paver count plus sand base.
Open tool →Flagstone Calculator
Patios and steppers. Tons needed by thickness.
Open tool →Retaining Wall Block Calculator
Block count by wall length, height and base gravel.
Open tool →Asphalt Calculator
Driveways and patch jobs. Tons of hot mix asphalt.
Open tool →Topsoil Calculator
Garden beds and lawns. Cubic yards and tons of topsoil.
Open tool →Fill Dirt Calculator
Grading and backfill. Cubic yards and tons of fill.
Open tool →Mulch Calculator
Beds and borders. Cubic yards and 2 ft³ bags of mulch.
Open tool →How material calculators work
Almost every building and landscaping material is ordered by volume, and the volume is always the same simple idea: the area you are covering multiplied by how deep the material goes. Measure the length and width of the area in feet, multiply to get square feet, then multiply by the depth converted to feet (depth in inches divided by 12). That gives cubic feet. Divide by 27 to reach cubic yards, the unit most suppliers in the United States quote. For a metric order, one cubic foot is about 0.0283 cubic meters.
From there, loose materials like gravel, sand and topsoil are converted to weight using their density, because yards sell and deliver them by the ton. Bagged products like concrete and mulch are converted to a bag count using the volume each bag holds. Each calculator here handles those conversions for its material, so you can order in whichever unit your supplier uses.
Which calculator should I use?
Use the concrete calculator for slabs, footings and round columns, with cubic yards and 40/60/80 lb bag counts, and the rebar calculator to size the reinforcing grid inside it. Use the gravel calculator or crushed stone calculator for driveways, paths and bases, and the sand calculator or river rock calculator for bedding and decorative beds. Building a patio or wall? The paver, flagstone, retaining wall block and asphalt calculators cover hardscaping. For the garden, the topsoil and fill dirt calculators handle beds, lawns and grading, and the mulch calculator gives cubic yards and standard 2 ft³ bag counts for beds and borders. Every tool is free, needs no account, and keeps your measurements on your own device.
Why ordering the right amount matters
Running short mid-project is the expensive mistake. With concrete it risks a cold joint, a weak seam where a second batch meets partly set concrete. With a delivered material it means a second delivery fee for a small top-up. Ordering far too much wastes money and leaves you to dispose of the excess. A calculated figure with a sensible 5 to 10 percent waste allowance is the reliable middle ground, which is exactly what these tools produce.
Tips for accurate measurements
Measure each area separately if your project is an L-shape or has several beds, then add the results. For a sloping or uneven surface, use the average depth rather than the shallowest or deepest point. Keep your units consistent: these calculators expect length and width in feet and depth in inches, which matches how most jobs are measured on site. When in doubt, round the depth up rather than down, since a slightly thicker layer is almost always better than a thin one that fails early.